Jewellery

Introduction

Jewels are acquired for any number of reasons. However, the main purpose for having jewellery (whether heirlooms or costume pieces) is to wear it. Gems are valued for their beauty, durability, and rarity. Their colour and clarity and the way they refract light make them desirable. Their hardness can be rated on a scale (the Mohs' scale), with 1 being the softest and 10 the hardest.

Most gemstones are minerals. Diamonds are the hardest. Other gemstones include ruby, sapphire, emerald, topaz, peridot, opal, turquoise, lapis lazuli and jade. The mineral most commonly used as a gemstone is quartz. The crystalline variety includes rock crystal, rose quartz, citrine, smoky quartz, tiger's eye, and amethyst. Another variety, cryptocrystalline quartz, is more commonly referred to as chalcedony or, if it has stripes, agate. There are also organic gems, which include pearl, cultured pearl, coral and shell.

Through the ages, any number of materials have been worked into pieces of jewellery: naturally occurring materials such as amber and jet; animal materials such as ivory, pearl, coral, and tortoiseshell; and materials such as glass, porcelain, plastic, and enamel, which imitate more precious substances.

Causes of Damage

The main damage to jewellery comes from wearing and handling. Settings can catch on things. Some stones are brittle and can crack or splinter if they are knocked too hard or even dropped, and soft stones can be scratched easily. Gold and silver are soft metals, especially when unalloyed, and can be scratched and deformed easily. Synthetic materials, such as plastic, can also be dented or broken.

While many gemstones are quite hard (higher than 8 on the Mohs' scale), they can also be brittle. Included in this group are rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and topaz. Soft stones, such as peridot, opal, and turquoise, are vulnerable to scratching. Opals contain water; therefore, extremes in temperature should be avoided because they will cause the stone to expand and contract. Gems in the quartz family (including citrine and amethyst) have an average hardness, but can be sensitive to heat and exposure to strong sunlight, both of which can lead to colour changes. The organic gems (pearls, coral, amber, and tortoiseshell) scratch easily. The chemicals in perfume, hair spray, and cosmetics can also cause damage to organic gems. Some gems, such as opal and turquoise, are particularly susceptible to staining because they are porous.

Handling and Storage

Before you decide to wear heirloom jewellery, consider whether or not there is a chance of damage or loss. Beautiful though it may be, if its loss or damage will diminish your family record, perhaps it is wiser to keep it safe.

If you decide to wear your heirloom jewellery — perhaps on very special occasions — it is a good idea to check it thoroughly to ensure that settings and clasps are secure, that links are not worn, and that hinges are working properly. Rings, bracelets, and cufflinks are prone to bumps and scrapes. Remove jewellery before rough or energetic activities. Carefully inspect all claw settings — the metal clasps that hold the jewels in place — to ensure that the gems are firmly gripped and cannot be accidentally dislodged. Loose claws and other damages should be treated by an expert jeweller.

Pendants should be worn on chains strong enough to hold them. Low-hanging pendants should not swing against other surfaces or get tangled in articles of clothing. Brooches should be worn only on appropriate fabrics (pushing a delicate pin through a heavy fabric might weaken the pin's fitting, and wearing a heavy pin on a light fabric could stretch or tear the fabric).

Jewels should be stored away from strong light, moisture, and dust. There are a variety of storage boxes available on the market. However, check that storage cases are lined with non-abrasive materials such as pure cotton, velvet, or satin. Jewellery rolls are a safe way to store chains or bead necklaces. As well, you can store jewellery in the presentation boxes they came in.

The worst place to store your jewellery is in a box or drawer, jumbled up with lots of other pieces. This invites scratches, damage, and breakage.

Cleaning and Repair

Cleaning and repair of heirloom gems and other jewellery should be left to professionals. There are many basic ways to care for jewellery at home, but these are more normally applied to modern items in good condition with low heritage value. Older items that have been passed down through generations may have incipient and sometimes invisible damage or deterioration, and should be treated with great caution.